P006 → Non-Patriotic Tales



Non-Patriotic Tales


"¡Qué más quisiera yo que esto fuera leche y miel! Pero no, esto es un valle de lágrimas cargado de sufrimiento. " 
El desbarrancadero, Fernando Vallejo

Reflecting on the history and symbols of my own country, I used sugar cane in different states of refinement to reflect upon the historical violence of this material particularly in the department of Cauca in Colombia. There its production inherits the consequences of slavery during colonial times and continues to perpetuate the privatization of the land and therefore lack of sovereignty for its population, alongside environmental problems. Ironically, the same sugar, and particularly panela is also a fundamental part of the idiosyncrasy of the country. Staple of any household table, it is used both to cook traditional dishes and to cure the flu, serving as a symbol of family, tradition and care.
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Non-Patriotic Tales | Panela, Brown Sugar, Brown Sugar | 90 * 90 * 9 cm | 2025





Detail of Non-Patriotic Tales


      Cooking with my grandma was one of the first things that taught me about love, patience and time. We could spend hours during my summer and winter breaks removing the grains of corncob one per one, opening each bean pod as a sort of meditation or using the mill to extract the juice to make arepas and envueltos. In contrast to my house in Bogotá where my mom would buy brand names for all sorts of goods’—cereal, milk, oatmeal, eggs,—my grandma still preferred to go to the plaza de mercado and to walk back home with the heavy bags, at the time we didn’t have a car. She would often spend that time talking about the development of the neighborhood, on how my uncles and dad had to walk down the hill to bring water in buckets back home to cook. 

    In her table you could always find a porcelain with its own lid to store the brown sugar. Same sugar she would use to prepare all sorts of desserts. Dulce de mora, dulce de durazno, dulce de papayuela, always a sweet of… and any fruit available. And every now ang then, against all my desires, she would make mielmesabe, a Colombian Style Curdled Milk dessert made with milk, lime and panela—a kind of unrefined cane sugar. Probably the sweetest thing I’ve ever tasted, Miel-me-sabe or I-Can-Taste-Honey requires one thing many people of my generation lack: patience. Stirring for an hour with a wooden spoon means you can’t do anything else but give the pot your full attention to prevent it from burning. Panela’s porosity allows her to melt into the liquid without hardening, even if it forms a hard structure the sandy texture crumbles. The final result, very distant from the crystal transparency of the white sugar, remains opaque. When you work with sugar instead of only buying sweets, it’s possible to create a sort of dialog with it. Too hot and it burns, turning the pot black in a matter of minutes, too cold and it never melts. It’s a game of give and take. Finally, when some sort of agreement is met, it transforms. An elastic structure you can pull to create threads or a hard shell to cover and protect.









Juana Vargas Moreno © 2026